10 January 2020

Guatemala_2020


GUATEMALA.

09/Jan/2020 to 30/Jan/2020.



Guatemala flag.
The Quetzal, national bird, symbolizes liberty.

Guatemala, travel recommendations.

Q 1 (Quetzal) = 0.12 € = 0.13 US$
1€ = Q 8.56 (Quetzales)

Guatemala time = CET - 7h






Thursday 09/Jan/2020.
Home to GUATEMALA journey.


Arrived well in time at Marseille airport,
(took an earlier airport shuttle,
fearing strike-induced delays).

Munchen airport.

Because of late arrival, last minute boarding
the Houston-Guatemala flight.
Unfortunately, baggage did not follow. 

– Lufthansa flight LH1087 from Marseille (MRS) to Frankfurt (FRA), 10:40-12:20 (delayed), 1h40, 569€ for all six flights including the return flights.
– Transit at Frankfurt airport, 1h30 (reduced to 15 minutes).
– United flight UA47 from Frankfurt (FRA) to Houston (IAH), 13:50-18:10, 11h20.
– Transit at Houston airport, 1h34.
– United flight UA 1902 from Houston (IAH) to Guatemala (GUA), 19:44-22:35, 2h51.

|---| Best Western Plus Hotel Stofella, Guatemala-city, 48€/n incl breakfast (1st night).



Friday 10/Jan/2020.
GUATEMALA-CITY.


Almost a full day spent to collect "Quetzales" from not-responding ATM machines, making upset chat-exchanges with call centers of my banks to get it right, further inquiring for my lost baggage (while buying some basic spare clothes, just in case), obtaining a local SIM card for my phone, and research for tomorrow's bus station.

End of the day : phone OK, some cash (4000Q), backpack received, bus terminal located.

|---| Best Western Plus Hotel Stofella, Guatemala-city, 48€/n incl breakfast bag (2nd night).



Saturday 11/Jan/2020.
Guatemala-city to COPAN (Honduras) journey.


Check-in for the 5h bus ride to Honduras.

Baggage inspection.

Guatemala-Honduras border crossing.

Guatemala-Honduras border crossing.

A well maintained  border stone.


Copán village.

Dust streets of Copán.

Cobbled streets of Copán.

Cobbled streets of Copán.

Tuktuk ride to the archeological area,
shaked by a FC Barcelona fan.

COPAN RUINAS.

World Heritage site.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan


Copan Maya Ruins
(Wikipedia picture).

Site entrance, 15US$.



Copán is most famous for the carved stelae.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maya_stelae


The famous Hieroglyphic Stairway,
showing the longest Mayan text.



The famous Jaguars,
the big cavities in the body were filled with black stones.


Looks if they had poor dentistry.

Nature takes control over human activities.

A one hour hike through a lush forest.

Macaw parrots, national bird of Honduras.

Return ride to the village,
taking a tuktuk with a three-seater Ferrari look.

Nice hotel for this and the next two nights.

– Bus ride (Hedman Alas) from Guatemala-city to Copán, 05:00-10:00 (AM), 5h, 37US$.

|---| Hotel Don Udo's, Copán Ruinas, 39€/n incl breakfast (1st night).



Sunday 12/Jan/2020.

Copán Ruinas village.




Museo Escultura.


Museum entrance,
through a long serpentine tunnel.

At the far end of entrance tunnel,
the reconstructed Rosalilo Temple.






Luna Jaguar Hot Spring.

Luna Jaguar Aguas Termales. is a natural hot springs spa under an hour's drive (25km) from Copán Ruinas.
Several man-made pools of differing temperatures mimic Mayan structures and are fed by the hot springs.
[from : Wikitravel]







One of the bigger pools,
at the the left hand side the jacuzzi entrance.

Inside of the Jacuzzi.

Relaxing mud pool.

Open-air Hammam.


- Transportation and resort entrance 22US$. 

|---| Hotel Don Udo's, Copán Ruinas, 39€/n incl breakfast (2nd night).



Monday 13/Jan/2020.

COPAN.


Horseback ride to Los Sapos ruins.

Private guide Gonzalo,
explaining about those tobacco drying houses
(continuously chatting in spanish, for 3 hours).

Happy-children labour.

Happy children labour.

Children labour, potato harvesting.

At Los Sapos ruins,
with gaucho Gonzalo.

Sitting on the Maya-sculpted crocodile,
with the famous frog in front !

A new gaucho.

Gonzalo seems to know everyone.

Museo de Arqueologia.







Skull with dental inlays.

- Horseback ride with private guide, 15US$/3h.

|---| Hotel Don Udo's, Copán Ruinas, 39€/n incl breakfast (3rd night).



Tuesday 14/Jan/2020.
Copán to ESQUIPULAS journey.


Two hours long direct bus ride to Esquipulas,
it left the border right after my arrival
(6 adults + 2 children sittingt on my row).

ESQUIPULAS.
The largest pilgrimage site in Central America.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Esquipulas
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Christ_of_Esquipulas

The icon which is the object of the pilgrimage is a black crucifix carved in 1594.
The first part of the pilgrimage, a part still significant for Indians and some other rural participants, consists of an offering mazde at the Rock of the Compadres, two overlapping stones along the old trail two miles from town. Pilgrims stop to burn copal (a ceremonial tree resin) or throw a few stones at this milestone.
Another stop, is the tap of Holy Water maintained by the basilica. Drinking the water is an essential element of the pilgrimage.
Family and community immages of saints are brought to the church for recharging of spiritual energy. These saints are crowded into the side altars around the images in the walls of the interior of the church. Men from each village are assigned the reponsibility of guarding them day and night.
A further ritual obligation concerns the the purchase and ingestion of small cakes of white earth, called "Pan del Señor".

[from : Pilgrimage in Latin America]



Esquipulas, basilica square.

"Scherpenheuvel" souvenir stalls.

Souvenir stalls.

More religious souvenirs.

Prayers in the basilica.



Discussions prior to the start of the procession
(the cross here is a copy of the real one,
for which the pilgrims queue hours long).


Compadres Rock.
A payan ceremony, celebrated by the Mayan people, coinciding with the Catholic pilgrimage (January 14/15).

Burning incense.

Clockwise walking around the balancing rock.

While throwing leaves over the rock.

At the top of the lookout (Mirador).

Midnight Mass.

Midnight mass is at 24:00..
However, safer to arrive at 21:30 !

At 21:30 the basilica is already quite full.

Behind the altar, the miraculous cross.



- Tuktuk ride from hotel to the collectivo terminal, 0h05, 20L.

- Collectivo to the Honduras-Guatemala border, 0h20, 20L.
- Bus ride from the border to Esquipulas, 1h30.

|---| Casa y Cocina Mama Fanti, Esquipulas, Q 360/n (1st night).



Wednesday 15/Jan/2020.


Esquipulas and surroundings.

A nice breakfast in town.


Once more a full basilica,
and that will last for the full day.

Molienda Don Nicolas coffee plantage.



Poor families picking coffee beans.

Cerrito Morola - Camino de la Cruz.


Pilgrims praying along the Way of the Cross.


Mayan pilgrims praying at a chapel.

Franciscan convent.

Panoramic view over Esquipulas.

|---| Casa y Cocina Mama Fanti, Esquipulas, Q 360/n (2nd night).



Thursday 16/Jan/2020.
Esquipulas to RIO DULCE journey.


Dropped at Rio Hondo (just a road crossing).

Car-pilgrims on their return from Esquipula

Lunch stop.

Dropped in Rio Dulce.

- Bus ride from Esquipulas to Rio Hondo, Transportes Routas Orientales 08:30-10:35, 2h05, Q 30.

- Bus ride from Rio Hondo to Rio Dulce, Transporte Fuente del Norte, 12:00-16:00, 4h incl 0h20 lunch stop, Q 50.
- Boat ride from the 'Sundog Cafe' to the remote River Lodge.

|---| Dreamcatcher Eco Lodge, Rio Dulce, 38€/n.



Friday 17/Jan/2020.
RIO DULCE & LIVINGSTON.


The hotel, located in the jungle.

Sailing from Rio Dulce to Livingston.
A two and a half hours journey along the Rio Dulce river towards the Caraïben coast.

Rio Dulce.

Puerto Fronteras.



Castillo de San Felipe,
built in 1652 to protect from pirates,
until taken by them in 1686.







LIVINGSTON.

Boat landing at Livingston.

Livingston, traffic police on the main road,
while there are no cars (no road connections).

Livingston.

The basilica of Esquipulas(center of the picture)
makes part of the Christmas decor.

Livingston.

Livingston.

Livingston.

Livingston.

|---| Dreamcatcher Eco Lodge, Rio Dulce, 38€/n.

-  "Lancha" ride (12 people speedboat) from the hotel to Livingston, 09:00-11:30 incl some stops, 2h30, Q 200 return.



Saturday 18/Jan/2020.
Rio Dulce to FLORES journey.


Catarata Finca Paraiso.
A hot water cascade.



- Lancha ride from the hotel to Frontera, 02:00-02:10, Q 10.

- Bus ride from Frontera to Flores, 15:00-20:30, 5h30, Q 110.

|---| Casa Ula Hotel, Flores (1st night).



Sunday 19/Jan/2020.


TIKAL.
World Heritage Site.
Largest and most important site in pre-Columbian Mayan history.














FLORES.


Flores city.

Lago Petén Itzá.

Lago Petén Itzá lake,
as observed from the hotel rooftop.

- Guided tour from Flores to TIKAL, 06:00-14:00, Q 120 + Q 150 entrance fee.


|---| Casa Ula Hotel, Flores (2nd night).



Monday 20/Jan/2020.
Flores to SAYAXCHE journey & Ceibal visit.


Entering a dangerous area
panters and jaguars...

Ferry crossing over the Rio El Passión.

Ferry crossing.

Sayaxché.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sayaxché

CEIBAL Maya Ruins.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seibal











After the 1h20 return sailing, back to Sayaxché.

- Tourist bus from Flores to Sayaxché, 08:00-09:45, Q 100.

|---| Hotel Casa Grande, Sayaxché, Q 125.




Tuesday 21/Jan/2020.
Sayaxché to Semuc Champey journey.


- Tourist shuttle bus from Sayaxché to Semuc Champey, 10:00-19:00, 9h, Q 125.

|---| Hotel El Portal, Semuc Champey, Q 250/n (1st night).



Wednesday 22/Jan/2020.

SEMUC CHAMPEY.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semuc_Champey

Discovering the nice eco-lodge.

Entrance to the natural pools area.


The natural pools,
observed from the Mirador.

The natural pools.

The river flows through a natural tunnel,
running below the pools.

Swimming in the pools.


Kan'ba caves.
Kan’ba Caves are accessible with a guide only. Some incorporate waterfall-climbing or cliff-jumping into a pool in near darkness.
[from : The Rough Guide to Guatemala] 


Wet cave visit.

Tubing on the Rio Cahabón.

Tubing on the river.

Safely arrived at destination.

|---| Hotel El Portal, Semuc Champey, Q 250/n (2nd night).



Thursday 23/Jan/2020.
Semuc Champey to Antigua journey.



LANQUIN.




ANTIGUA.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala




- Shaking pick-up ride from the Hotel to Lanquin, 7:00-7:45, free.
- Tourist bus ride from Lanquin to Antigua, 8:00-17:00, 9h incl stops, Q 140.
|---| Hotel Los Encuentros, Antigua, Q 344/n.



Friday 24/Jan/2020.
Antigua & Antigua to Quetzaltenango (Xela) journey.


ANTIGUA (Cont'd).





















- Tourist bus ride from Antigua to Quetzaltenango, 14:00-18:50, 4h50, Q 200.


|---| Casa Donna Mercedes, Quetzaltenango, Q 209/n.



Saturday 25/Jan/2020.

QUETZALTENANGO (XELA).
The Xela area offers some of the country’s most evocative highland scenery, with volcanic cones soaring above forested ridges, and a number of fascinating indigenous villages to explore.
Straddling the coast road south of the city are Almolonga and Zunil, where you’ll find superb hot springs, including Fuentes Georginas, a stunning natural spa. Just west of here the Santa María volcano, towering above Quetzaltenango, is a terrific if exhausting excursion.
The most accessible climb in the area lies southwest of the city, up Volcán Chicabal to an exquisite crater lake set in the extinct volcano’s cone.

[from : The Rough Guide to Guatemala]
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quetzaltenango





Funny tourist-train ride in town.






Ermita de la Conception.
The oldest still standing church of Central America.

Chicken-bus ride from Xela to Salcaj.

Miguel and Elisabeth,
neighbors during the chicken-bus ride,
gently accompanied me further on.



San Andres Xecul church.
Probably the most colourful church.


A contrasting minimalistic inside of the church.

Even more colours when the sun breaks through.

A funny icecream to thank these nice people.

- Tourist-train ride, 1h, Q 10.
- Chicken-bus ride from Xela to Salcaj, 0h30, Q 2.
- Chicken-bus ride from Salcaj to San Andres Xecul, 0h40, Q 3.
- Chicken bus ride from San Andres Xecul to Xela, 1h, Q 3.
- Minibus ride from Xela bus station to town center, 0h15, Q 1.50.

|---| Casa Donna Mercedes, Quetzaltenango, Q 209/n.



Sunday 26/Jan/2020.
Volcán Santa Maria hike.

On Oct. 25, 1902, Santa Maria erupted with such force that its volcanic ash reached San Francisco, California, some 4000km away. The disaster killed at least 5000 people, more victims perished in a malaria outbreak that followed.
Santa Maria ranks with Novarupta (Alaska, 1912) and Mount Pinatubo (Philippines, 1991) as one of the most violent eruptions of the 20th century.
Rising since 1922 in Santa Maria’s aftermath, the Santiaguito moonscape consists of four domes. El Caliente is the largest and most active with frequent eruptions.
Santa Maria’s forested slopes provide a tranquil overlook of the noisy offspring, a popular destination for trekkers to get a close-up view of one of

 Guatemala’s most amazing sights. 
[from : revuemag.com
Santa Maria Volcano is a large active volcano at 3772m.
It takes a difficult 4 hours to hike up and nearly the same time to come down.
You will enjoy a look into the active volcano next door called Santiaguito !
Meet your guide before dawn prepared for a challenging half day trek to the top of the Santa Maria Volcano. Take a short drive to the base of the volcano which is situated next to the small village of Lianos del Pinal. Embark on an early morning hike to reach the top of the fourth highest volcano on Guatemala, accompanied by your friendly and informative guide.
[from : Adrenalina Tours' brochure]

SANTA MARIA VOLCANO.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_(volcano)


Near the center of the picture,
the smoking Volcán de Fuego.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volcan_de_Fuego

At the summit with the guide (red backpack),
and the three other participants to the hike.

Indigenous communities climbed on Saturday,
and now celebrate Sunday mass.

Another praying indigenous community.

View on the Sanguito field of side cones,
with the active El Caliente.

Same view, from the same spot,
just another day.
(picture taken from revuemag.com)

Summit view on Xela.


On the descent, discovering the surrounding,
not seen earlier because of the darkness.

- Santa Maria volcano hike, Monte Verde Tours, 5:00-14:30, Q 200, 4 participants.
- Tourist-bus ride from Xela to Panajachel, 15:15-18:00 , Q 150.

|---| Hotel Fonda del Sol, Panajachel, Q 283/n incl breakfast.



Monday 27/Jan/2020.
Lago Atitlan sailing & Panajachel.


LAGO ATITLAN.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Atitlán

Sailing Panajachel - San Juan - San Pedro -
Santiago Atitlan - Panajachel (drawn in red).

Port of Panajachel.

Boat landing in San Juan.

Hiking to San Juan Mirador (lookout).

San Juan, at the lookout.

San Juan, view from the lookout.


San Pedro.

San Pedro.

San Pedro.

Santiago Atitlan.

Santiago Atitlan.

PANAJACHEL.




|---| Hotel Fonda del Sol, Panajachel, Q 283/n incl breakfast.



Tuesday 28/Jan/2020.
Panajachel to Monterrico journey.


Freshly brewed goat milk.

MONTERRICO.

Aldea la Avellana,
where cars continue their journey
through the mangrove.

Passenger ferry.

Car ferry.

Boat landing at Monterrico.

Monterrico.


Pelicans.


Sunset.

- Tourist shuttle from Panajachel to Monterrico, 5:00-11:20, 6h20, Q 230.

|---| Hotel El Delfin, Monterrico, Q 268/n.



Wednesday 29/Jan/2020.
Monterrico to Antigua journey.






Red snapper and

- Tourist shuttle from Monterrico to Antigua, 16:00- , Q 100.

|---| Hotel Casa Sofia, Antigua, Q 217/n incl breakfast.



Thursday 30/Jan/2020.
Return Home journey.


A last Capucino at famous Fernando's Kaffee.

– United flight UA1903 from Guatemala (GUA) to Houston (IAH), 13:30-16:30, 3h00.
– Transit at Houston airport, 2h31.
– United flight UA46 from Houston (IAH) to Frankfurt (FRA), 19:00-11:40(next day), 9h40.

|---| Boeing 777 Aircraft, economy seat.



Friday 31/Jan/2020.
Return Home journey (Cont'd).


– Transit at Frankfurt airport, 4h50.
– Lufthansa flight LH1088 from Frankfurt (FRA) to Marseille (MRS), 16:30-18:00, 1h30.



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