ITALY.
Via di Francesco pilgrimage road
(also known as the Saint-Francis Way, a multi-day hike from Florence to Rome).
13/Sep/2020 to 10/Oct/2020.
Saint Francis, patron saint of Italy (with Saint Catherine of Siena), also the patron saint of the animals and the environment, chose to leave a life of luxury to devote the rest of his years to the Christian faith.
He is remembered as the first person to receive the stigmata, or marks resembling the wounds Jesus Christ suffered when he was crucified, and was canonised only two years after his death.
In 2013, Cardinal Jorge Mario Bergogli from Argentina chose to honour the saint by taking his name, becoming Pope Francis.
Sunday 13/Sep/2020.
Milano to Firenze journey.
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Fast train to Firenze,
just a 1h44 ride from Milan. |
Firenze (Florence).
---- Trenitalia fast train 9527 from Milano Centrale to Firenze Santa Maria Novella, 10:20-12:04, 1h44, 42.90€.
|---| Hotel Abaco, Firenze, 44€ incl breakfast.
Monday 14/Sep/2020.
DAY 1 - Firenze to Pontassieve, 21.6km (+6km detour), 6h15, +660m, -640m.
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Along the Arno river,
looking back to Firenze.
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First waymarking, after having walked
already for one hour.
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Bagno a Ripoli, panorama from the
Chiesa di Santa-Maria-a-Quarto. |
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Bagno a Ripoli, Franciscan Convento dell'Incontro
(Convent of the Encounter), reached at noon for a picnic. |
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Convento dell'Incontro,
obtained there a bottle of wine for the picnic.
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San Prugnano.
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Pontasieve, Monastero di Santa-Maria-di-Rosano.
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|---| Leonardo's Rooms B&B, 46.50€/1p without breakfast.
Tuesday 15/Sep/2020.
DAY 2 - Pontasieve to Consuma, 17.5km, 5h30, +1070m, -160m.
|---| Hotel Miramonti, Consuma, 75€/2p.
Wednesday 16/Sep/2020.
DAY 3 - Consuma to Stia, 15km, 5h00, +400m, -940m.
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Leaving Consuma.
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Got sandwiches for the picnic at the local shop.
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Castel Castagnaio.
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Near Campolombardo.
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Stia.
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Stia.
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Stia.
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| Stia, the B&B for tonight (with my drying shirt). |
|---| B&B La Guardia, Stia, 50€/2p.
Thursday 17/Sep/2020.
DAY 4 - Stia to Camaldoli, 15.9km, 6h00, +980m, -600m.
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Leaving Stia,
church of Saint-Francis-of-the-Stigmata.
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A bird fright.
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San Biagio di Ama.
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Lonnano.
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| Eremo di Camaldoli. |
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| Eremo di Camaldoli. |
|---| Eremo di Camaldoli, Camaldoli, donativo.
Friday 18/sep/2020.
DAY 5 - Eremo di Camaldoli to Biforco, 20.5km, 7h20, +1000m, -1150m.
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Leaving the Eremo.
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Breakfast at the bar of Camaldoli village.
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Walking through the ferns.
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| Frassineta. |
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Scapruggine.
One can already distinguish at the horizon
the Mount Penna with the La Verna sancturary. |
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Scapruggine.
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Biforco.
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Biforco's village shop,
also bar, library, and more. |
|---| Camera Silvia, Biforco, 30€/n/p.
Saturday 19/Sep/2020.
DAY 6 - Biforco to Chiusi-della-Verna, 7.3km, 3h15, +700m, -240m.
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Leaving the lovely village of Biforco.
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Looking back to Biforco.
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La Ghiacciaia,
a natural ice cave.
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Santuario La-Verna.
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Sasso Spico.
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Leaving the La Verna sanctuary
for the village of Chiusi-della-Verna. |
|---| La Verna House Apartment, Chiusi-della-Verna, 75€/3p.
Sunday 20/Sep/2020.
DAY 7 - Chiusi-della-Verna to Caprese-Michelangelo, 17.5km, 6h15, +620m, -1130m.
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The pilgrim dorm in Fragaiolo,
closed by an "artistic" priest |
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The B&B for tonight.
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|---| La Pecora et l'Agnello, Caprese-Michelangelo, 96€/3p including a big breakfast.
Monday 21/Sep/2020.
DAY 8 - Caprese-Michelangelo to Sansepolcro, 25.3km, 6h30, +360, -650m.
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Very bad weather forecast,
fortunately first drops felt after 16:00. |
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Leaving Caprese-Michelangelo at 7:00AM.
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Sansepolcro.
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Sansepolcro.
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|---| B&B Dolce Rosa, Sansepolcro, 64€/3p.
Tuesday/22/Sep/2020.
DAY 9 - Sansepolcro to Città-di-Castello, 28.6km, 7h45, +750m, -800m.
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Leaving the B&B.
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Convento di Montecasale.
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Approaching the Convento di Montecasale.
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Convento di Montecasale.
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Convento di Montecasale.
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Convento di Montecasale.
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Next, the pilgrimage trail
goes through many recently abandoned villages.
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Approaching Città di Castello.
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| Approaching Città di Castello. |
Città di Castello.
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| Città di Castello, the Duomo. |
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| Città di Castello, the Duomo. |
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| Città di Castelo, the Duomo, with work in progress.. |
|---| B&B La Galleria, Città-di-Castello, 38€/3p.
Wednesday 23/Sep/2020.
DAY 10 - Città-di-Castello to Pietralunga, 30.3km, 8h45, +970m, -680m.
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Leaving the B&B.
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| Pieve de Saddi. |
Pietralunga.
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Approaching Pietralunga.
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The B&B with a welcome swimming pool.
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Covid-safe B&B as well.
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Thursday 24/Sep/2020.
DAY 11 - Pietralunga to Gubbio, 26.2km, 8h, +750m, -820m.
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| Leaving the excellent B&B. |
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Madonna di Montecchi.
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Monteleto, Chiesa di Loreto,
with a pilgrim fountain. |
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Pilgrim stop.
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Gubbio.
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Gubbio.
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Gubbio, Palazza dei Consoli,
and three happy pilgrims. |
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Gubbio, the pilgrim stamp.
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| Gubbio, a view on the hills for the next days. |
|---| Hotel alla Casello, Gubbio, 75€/3p.
Friday 25/Sep/2020.
DAY 12 - Gubbio to Val-di-Chiascio, 16.3km, 4h45, +330m, -360m.
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| Leaving the hotel. |
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Santa-Maria-della-Vittorina,
built where Francesco tamed the wolf (1222). |
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The straight Roman road,
leading from Gubbio to Ponte-d'Assi. |
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| A Harry-Potter shop in the middle of nowhere. |
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Leaving the eremo
(pilgrims from Montevideo, Uruguay). |
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Pieve di Coccorano (the chapel in the center),
a convenient picnic spot.
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| Chiesa di Barcaccia. |
Valfabbrica.
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Valfabbrica.
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Valfabbrica, the hotel for tonight.
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|---| B&B Sui Passi di Francesco, Valfabbrica, 45€/3p.
Sunday 27/sep/2020.
DAY 14 - Valfabbrica to Assisi, 14.8km, 4h30, +530m, -400m.
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Leaving Valfabbrica for Assisi.
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Assisi. |
Approaching Assisi.
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Assisi.
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A quick Campari-spritz...
before participating to the pilgrim mass.
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| Pilgrims' mass. |
|---| Hotel Ancajani, Assisi, 80€/3p incl breakfast.
Monday 28/Sep/2020.
DAY 15 - Assisi to Foligno, 21.6km, 5h30, +200m, -400m.
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Leaving the pilgrim hotel.
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A last picture with Marco,
returning home for work. |
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Approaching Spello.
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Spello, the duomo.
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Spello.
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Approaching Foligno.
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Foligno.
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Foligno.
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Foligno, the B&B for tonight.
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|---| Il Piccolo Principe, Foligno, 47€/2p.
Tuesday 29/Sep/2020.
DAY 16 - Foligno to Pissignano, 18.8km, 5h15, +470m, -470m.
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A fancy breakfast bar.
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Sant Eraclio.
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San Donato chapel.
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Santa-Maria-in-Valle.
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|---| Aqva Fontis, Campello sul Clituno, 43€/2p.
Wednesday 30/Sep/2020.
DAY 17 - Pissignano to Monteluco-di-Spoleto, 19.1km, 5h30, +640m, -100m.
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Leaving the B&B.
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Found a giant haricot !
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San Giacomo,
a village grown from a 13th Century
pilgrims hospital |
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Footpath along the Torrente Marroggia.
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San Sabino church. |
| Spoleto, Duomo. |
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Bosco sacro.
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Monteluco. |
Eremo of Monteluco,
an antique Franciscan monk room.
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The hotel for tonight.
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A nice 15€ pilgrim's dinner.
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|---| Hotel Ferretti, Monteluco-di-Spoleto, 50€/2p incl breakfast.
Thursday 01/Oct/2020.
DAY 18 Monteluco-di-Spoleto to Baiano, 16.7km, 5h00, +580m, -900m.
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San Giuliano chapel.
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San Giuliano chapel, detail.
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San Pietro church, 5th Century.
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San Pietro, the hell, detail of the facade.
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Spoleto.
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Spoleto, the Roman theater.
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Spoleto, acquiring sandwiches
and a nice bottle of Umbria wine
for an outstanding picnic. |
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Between Montelirossi and Madonna-di-Baiano.
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Eremo Madonna-di-San-Salvatore.
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Castello di Baiano.
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|---| Hotel La Fattoria, San-Giovanni-di-Baiano, 60€/2p incl breakfast.
Friday 02/Oct/2020.
DAY 19 - Baiano to Romita-di-Cesi hike, 18.4km, 5h30, +800m, -490m.
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Breakfast time at the hotel.
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Rapicciano.
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Fogliano (San-Michele-Archangelo church).
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Romita-di-Cesi, Franciscan convent.
Where Saint Francis lived in a natural cave.
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Evening dinner.
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Outlook near the convent.
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|---| Romita-di-Cesi, Franciscan convent, donativo.
Saturday 03/Oct/2020.
DAY 20 - Romita-di-Cesi to Terni hike, 17.5km, 5h00, +190m, -820m.
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Bosco Sacro.
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Cesi.
Changing weather. |
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Approaching Terni,
heavy rain.
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Terni.Where Saint Francis preached.
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Terni, San Francesco statue,
put on top of an historical rock stone. |
|---| Il Teatro Alloggi, apartment, Terni, 50€.
Sunday 04/Oct/2020.
DAY 21 - Terni to Stroncone, 16.7km, 5h15, +620m, -370m.
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Leaving the apartment.
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Terni's Duomo.
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Stroncone.
|---| Hotel Porta del Tempo, Stroncone, 62€/2p incl breakfast.
Monday 05/Oct/2020.
DAY 22 - Stroncone to Calvi-dell'Umbria, 21.3km, 7h30, + 1000m, -1000m.
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Leaving hilltown Stroncone.
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Coppe, Madonna delle Neve.
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River crossing.
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Santuario Sacro Speco.
Calvi-dell'Umbria. |
Calvi, main bar.
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|---| Osteria del Mandorlo, Calvi-dell'Umbria, 50€/2p incl breakfast.
Tuesday 06/Oct/2020.
DAY 23 Calvi-dell'Umbria to Selci, 19.7km, 5h30, +400m, -600m.
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Morning view from Calvi.
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A sea of clouds over the valley.
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Looking back to Calvi.
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Fianello, an abandoned village.
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Selci.
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At the restaurant with pilgrim rooms,
snacks and wine are offered at arrival. |
|---| Restaurant and pilgrim rooms La Vecchia Quercia, Selci, 60€/2p incl breakfast.
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Leaving the kind owners of the restaurant with pilgrim rooms.
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Montopoli di Sabina.
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Abbazia di Santa Maria di Farfa.
Abbey of Saint Mary in Farfa.
Founded by monks around half way through the 6th century on the ruins of a Roman villa and rebuilt in 680, the Abbey (known as the "Imperial Abbey"), experienced its period of greatest glory between the 8th and 12th centuries, thanks to the protection of Charlemagne and his successors.
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Another rich Campari-Spritz at 3.50€.
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|---| Casa Santa Brigida (Benedictine nuns), Farfa, 45€ half board.
Thursday 08/Oct/2020.
DAY 25 - Farfa to Montelibretti, 14.4km, 5h00, +530m, -530m.
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Leaving the Benedictine nuns.
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Canneto Sabino, the Ulivone,
a two-thousand years old olive tree.
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Montelibretti.
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Montelibretti,
looking back to the hike of today. form the Sabine hills |
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San Rocco from Montpellier.
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The B&B for tonight.
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|---| B&B I due Gelsi, Montelibretti, 30€.
Friday 09/Oct/2020.
DAY 26 - Montelibretti to Monterotondo hike, 14.4km, 5h00, +530m -530m, and a train to Rome.
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Torre Fiora, a 70m tall Roman signaling tower (speculae).
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Monterotondo.
End of the 26 days hike.
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Monterotondo.
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| Monterotondo. |
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| Monterotondo. |
Rome.
Reached by train from Monterotondo
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Rome, Saint Peter's basilica.
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Rome, the pilgrim's hostel.
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|---| Pilgrim dorm Confraternity of Saint James of Perugia, Trastevere, Roma, donativo.
Saturday 10/Oct/2020.
DAY 27 - Roma to Milano journey.
---- Fast train Frecciarossa 9642 from Roma-Termini to Milano-Centrale 14:50-18:00, 3h10, 85.90€.
|---| Karolien & Emanuele's flat.
