Caminho Central Português
(also known as the Via Lusitana or the Portugese Way).
Santiago-do-Cacém to Porto (and maybe later to Santiago-de-Compostela).
02/Apr/2021 to 24/Apr/2021.
Portuguese Way (Portuguese: Caminho Português, Spanish: Camino Portugués) is the name of the different Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes starting in Portugal.
https://www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt/en/os-caminhos/caminho-central/
This pilgrimage is along the historical Caminho Central.
Starting point may be chosen anywhere. Mine is at Santiago-do-Cacém, a little town about 100km South of Lisbon, already reached last year (2020) along the Rota Vicentina.
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| November 2020, I hiked the Rota Vicentina. Now, the Caminho Central towards Santiago-de-Compostela. |
CLICK HERE for the pilgrimage along the Rota Vicentina (Santiago-do-Cacém to Lagos (November 2020)
Tuesday 30/Mar/2021.
Home to Lisbon journey.
|---| Hotel Borges, Chiado, Lisbon, 45€/n breakfast included, 2nd night.
Back to Lisbon.
Friday 02/Apr/2021 - Good Friday.
|---| Casa Vaz 2, Grândola, 56.72€/2r.
Sunday 04/Apr/2021 - Easter.
Tuesday 06/Apr/2021.
Wednesday 07/Apr/2021.
HIKE 6 - Vendas-Novas to Branca, 33km (minus ~3km = ~30km).
Thursday 08/Apr/2021.
Friday 09/Apr/2021.
|---| Tent setup, 2km after Samora-Correia (8km before Benavente).
Saturday 10/Apr/2021 (rainy anniversary day).
---- Bus ride from Benavente to Vila-Franca-de-Xira, 0h33.
|---| Villa Graça, Santarém, 74€.
Sunday 11/Apr/2021.
Monday 12/Apr/2021.
HIKE 11 - Golegã to Tomar, 30.4km (minus ~10km = ~20.4km).
|---| Thomar Story guesthouse, Tomar, 31€/r.
Wedesday 14/Apr/2021.
|---| Albergue Hilário, Sernadelo, 15€/r.
Sunday 18/Apr/2021.
HIKE 16 - Sernadelo to Águeda, 23.6km (plus ~1.2km = ~24.8km).
|---| Albergue de Peregrinos Santo António, Águeda, 30€/r incl breakfast.
Monday 19/Apr/2021.
HIKE 17 - Águeda to Albergaria-a-Velha, 16.1km.
Tuesday 20/Apr/2021.
São-João-da-Madeira (21k inh.)
Wednesday 21/Apr/2021.
|---| Albergue de Peregrinos, Grijó. (closed). Hotel Girasol, Porto, 36€ without breakfast.
Thursday 22/Apr/2021.
Friday 23/Apr/2021.
Tuesday 30/Mar/2021.
Home to Lisbon journey.
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| Hoping and praying for a safe pilgrimage year (Covid-19 pandemic). |
---- Ryanair flight FR2078 from Marseille MRS to Lisbon LIS, 21:45-23:05 (local times), 2h20, 33€ incl checked baggage.
---- Airport to Hotel transfer, 23€.
|---| Hotel Borges, Chiado, Lisbon, 45€/n breakfast included, 1st night.
Wednesday 31/Mar/2021.
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| Cais das Colunas. |
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| Praça do Comércio, with the Dom José I statue. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_I_of_Portugal |
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| Arco da Rua Augusta. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rua_Augusta_Arch |
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| Entrance arc of the Castelo de São Jorge fortress. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/São_Jorge_Castle |
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| São Jorge. (Saint Vincent is the official patron-saint of Lisbon, even if Saint Anthony is more popular). https://algarvedailynews.com/history/7717-st-vincent-the-forgotten-saint |
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| Lookout at the Igreja de San Vicente de Fora. |
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| Panteão Nacional. |
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| Museu de Artilharaia. |
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| King Manuel I of Portugal. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manuel_I_of_Portugal |
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| Chafariz d'El Rei. |
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| Elevador de Santa Justa. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Justa_Lift |
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| São Roque church. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Igreja_de_São_Roque |
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| San Rocco, the patron of the pilgrims. |
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| Luis de Camões square. |
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| Cancilhas ferry landing. A 15 minutes river crossing to Almada. |
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| Almada. |
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| Between Almada and Setubal. |
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| Between Almada and Setubal. |
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| Setubal, Christ the King statue, 110m tall. |
|---| Hotel Borges, Chiado, Lisbon, 45€/n breakfast included, 2nd night.
Thursday 01/Apr/2021.
Lisbon (2nd day).
Belém.
Lisbon (2nd day).
Belém.
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| Bélem Palace, residence of the president. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belém_Palace |
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| Jerónimos Monastery. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerónimos_Monastery |
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| Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Jerónimos Monastery. |
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| Jerónimos Monastery. |
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| Pãdrao dos Descobrimentos. Monument of the Discoveries. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padrãdos_Descobrimentos |
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| Torre de Bélem. Belém tower. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belém_Tower |
Back to Lisbon.
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| Lisbon's cathedral, a starting point of the Caminho Português de Santiago. |
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| The first Camino waymarking for pilgrims leaving from Lisbon. |
|---| Hotel Borges, Chiado, Lisbon, 45€/n breakfast included, 3rd night.
Friday 02/Apr/2021 - Good Friday.
Lisbon to Santiago-do-Cacém journey &
HIKE 1 - Santago-do-Cacém to Roncão, 22km (minus ~3km = ~19km).
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| Santiago-do-Cacém, Igrea Matriz, 13th century, starting point of our Caminho. |
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| Santiago-do-Cacém ancient pelgrimage testimonium. |
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| Santiago-do-Cacém. |
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| Santiago-do-Cacém, found the priest for the first Caminho Credential stamp (Patricia somewhat uninterested). |
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| First Caminho waymarking after Santiago-do-Cacém. |
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| Railway crossing near São-Bartolomeu-da-Serra. |
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| São-Bartolomeo-da-Serra. |
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| Snake crossing. |
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| River crossing. |
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| Camping setup, ~3km before Roncão. |
---- Metro ride from Lisbon Baixa-Chiado to Sete-Rio, 1.50€.
---- IC571 Train from Lisbon Sete-Rio to Grandola, 10:14-11:18, 1h04, 13.65€.
---- Taxi ride from Grandola train station to Santiago-do-Cacém, 40€/2p.
|---| Tent setup, ~3km prior to Roncão.
Saturday 03/Apr/2021.
HIKE 2 - Roncão to Grândola, 23km (plus ~3km = ~26km).
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| Soon, the first Caminho waymarking of the day, and a water spring. |
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| Fortunate to cross a mobile bakery. |
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| Entering Grandola, end of the hills. |
Sunday 04/Apr/2021 - Easter.
HIKE 3 - Grândola to Vale-de-Guizo and to Alcácer-do-Sal, 33km (minus ~6km = 27km).
Vale-do-Guiso.
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| Entering Vale-do-Guiso. |
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| Vale-do-Guiso. |
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| Vale-do-Guiso, negociations about the river crossing. |
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| River crossing at Vale-do-Guiso. |
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| Tent setup. |
---- Crossing of the Rio-Sado river by Leonel Baracinha from the eel-tavern (tel +351 963 457 267 or 265 637 158).
|---| Tent setup, ~6km before Alcácer-do-Sal.
Monday 05/Apr/2021 - Easter-Monday.
HIKE 4 - Alcácer-do-Sal to Casebres, 23km (plus ~6km = ~29km).
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| "Prova de Vinhos" at the Herdade da Barrosinha Winery. http://www.herdadedabarrosinha.pt/en |
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| Alcácer-do-Sal. |
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| Alcácer-do-Sal. |
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| Picnic bottle, near to the Vale-dos-Reis ruins. |
---- Taxi ride from Casebres to the B&B, 40€/2p.
|---| Casa Zanzibar B&B, Landeira, 45€/r incl breakfast.
Tuesday 06/Apr/2021.
HIKE 5 - Casebres to Vendas-Novas, 22km.
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| Leaving the "Zanzibar" B&B. |
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| Back to Casebres, after having spent the night 20km away. |
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| Rude, not respectable forest work. |
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| Vendas-Novas, Tourist Office (closed). |
---- Taxi ride from Landeira back to Casebres, 40€/2p.
|---| Hotel Acez, Vendas-Novas, 75€/r incl breakfast.
Wednesday 07/Apr/2021.
HIKE 6 - Vendas-Novas to Branca, 33km (minus ~3km = ~30km).
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| Vendas-Novas... famous for its porc sandwich. |
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| A series of porc-sandwich eateries. |
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| 7km along a nice asphalt road. |
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| 2km more of monotonous asphalt. |
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| First blue-arrow waymarking (for the Fatima pilgrim trail). |
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| Railroad crossing. |
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| Farm with 600 mother-pigs and 7400 baby-pigs. |
|---| Tent, eucalyptus forest, about 3km before Branca.
Thursday 08/Apr/2021.
HIKE 7 - Branca to Santo-Estêvão, 17km (plus ~3km = ~20km).
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| Early leaving the tent setup (...as promised to the land owner). |
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| Santo-Estêvão. |
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| "Country Club" house for the overnight. |
|---| Country Club (a tiny two-bedroom house), about 2km before Santo-Estêvão, 45€.
Friday 09/Apr/2021.
HIKE 8 - Santo-Estêvão to Samora-Correia 16km (plus ~2km, plus ~2km = ~20km).
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| Santo-Estêvão. |
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| Santo-Estêvão, bar. |
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| Excellent "Os Pardais" restaurant, entering Samora-Correia. |
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| Samora-Correia, Igreja Matriz. |
Saturday 10/Apr/2021 (rainy anniversary day).
HIKE 9 - Samora-Correia to Benavente hike & transfer to Santarém.
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| Leaving the tent setup right before rain starts. |
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| Along the Sorraia irrigation channels. |
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| Benavente. |
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| Benavente. |
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| Vila-Franca-de-Xira, train station. |
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| Vila-Franca-de-Xira. |
Santarém.
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| Santarém, Igrea de Graça church (center) and the overnight lodging (right hand side) |
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| Santarém, Pedro Álvares Cabral statue (who died in Santarém). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pedro_Álvares_Cabral |
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| Jummy anniversary cheesecake. |
---- Bus ride from Benavente to Vila-Franca-de-Xira, 0h33.
---- Train ride from Vila-Franca-de-Xira to Santarém, 13:11-13:48, 0h37, 4.30€.
|---| Villa Graça, Santarém, 74€.
Sunday 11/Apr/2021.
HIKE 10 - Santarém to Golegã, 34.2km (minus ~7.1km = ~27.1km).
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| Leaving Santarém. |
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| Leaving Santarém through the Porta de Santiago. |
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| Downtown Santarém. |
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| Albuergue for tonight. |
|---| Casa de Azzancha, Azinhaga, 20€/dorm bed.
Monday 12/Apr/2021.
HIKE 11 - Golegã to Tomar, 30.4km (minus ~10km = ~20.4km).
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| Leaving the pilgrim hostel. |
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| Golegã, "A Camponesa" statue, 1982, from the local artist Martins Correia. |
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| Golegã, Igreja Matriz, with an elaborate Manueline entrance (reminding me on the Bomarzo Parco dei Mostri). |
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| Golegã, Igrea Matriz, beautiful azuleos tiles. |
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| Golegã, Portugal's horse capital. |
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| Golegã, excellent breakfast bar. |
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| São-Gaetano, Terra de Templarios monument. |
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| São-Gaetano. |
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| São-Gaetano. |
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| São-Gaetano, pilgrim hostel. |
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| São-Gaetano, Palentology museum. |
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| Quinta-da-Gardiga. |
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| Quinta-da-Gardiga. |
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| Barquina. |
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| Vila-Nova-da-Barquinha, O Trindade restaurant. |
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| Atalaia, Igreja Matriz. |
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| Asseiceira. |
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| Tomar. |
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| Campari-Spritz versus Aperol-Spritz. |
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| Outstanding Sicilian pizza. |
---- Taxi ride from Azinhaga to Golegã, morning, 7.1km, 10€.
---- Taxi ride from Asseiceira to Tomar, afternoon, 10.3km, 15€.
|---| Thomar Story guesthouse, Tomar, 33€/r.
Tuesday 13/Apr/2021.
Tuesday 13/Apr/2021.
REST DAY.
Tomar.
Portugal's Knights Templar capital.
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| Road Pavement. |
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| Igreja Matriz. |
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| Igrea Matriz. |
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| Igreja Matriz, Saint James' pilgrimage corner. |
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| Templar's Castle. |
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| Templar's Castle, Convento de Cristo. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convent_of_Christ_(Tomar) |
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| Patricia's departure. |
Wedesday 14/Apr/2021.
HIKE 12 - Tomar to Alvaiázere, 32.5km.
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| Early leaving the hotel. |
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| Ponte de Peniche. |
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| Casais. |
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| Casais. |
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| Solanda. |
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| Café Cabeleira, Calvinos. |
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| Escoural. |
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| Café-Restaurante Saavedra, Pereiro |
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| Café-Restaurante Saavedra, Pereiro (meal+beers+coffee 9.50€). |
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| Pereiro. |
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| Quinta da Cortiça, pilgrim hostel (closed). |
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| Wayside shrine. |
Alvaiázere.
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| Reached the Albergue. |
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| 11€50 bedroom. |
|---| Albergaria Pinheiro, Alvaiázere, 11.50€.
Thursday 15/Apr/2021.
HIKE 13 - Alvaiázere to Ansião to Rabaçal, 31.7km.
At Ansião merges the route from Fatima.
Thursday 15/Apr/2021.
HIKE 13 - Alvaiázere to Ansião to Rabaçal, 31.7km.
At Ansião merges the route from Fatima.
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| Leaving Alvaiázere, with heavy rain. |
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| Capela de Nossa Senhora do Pranto, Gramatinha, 17th Century. |
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| Ponte-da-Cal over the river Nabão, leaving Ansião. |
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| Venda-do-Brasil crossroad, bar and petrol station. |
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| Picnic at the petrol station. |
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| Junquiera. |
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| Alvorge, still 8km to Rabaçal. |
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| Alvorge. |
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| Alvorge. |
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| Blue waymarking for Fatima, Yellow arrows for Santiago. |
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| Arrival at the albergue, 16:00. |
|---| Albergue O-Bonito, Rabaçal.
Friday 16/Apr/2021.
|---| Hotel Oslo, Coimbra, 54€ incl. packed breakfast.
Saturday 17/Apr/2021.
Friday 16/Apr/2021.
HIKE 14 - Rabaçal to Coimbra (28.7km).
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| Morning coffee at the Albergue. |
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| Zambujal. |
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| Leaving Zambujal. |
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| Fonte-Coberta. |
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| Fonte-Coberta. |
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| Cernache, houses have tall entrance doors. |
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| Cernache. |
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| Cernache, lunch at Café Moleirinho (soup, steak, salad, wine, coffee 8.50€). |
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| Near Palheira. |
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| Cruz-de-Morouços, Café Araujo. |
Coimbra (148k inh.).
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| Coimbra, Ponte de Santa Clara over the Rio Mondego river. |
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| Coimbra, view from the rooftop terrace of the Hotel. |
Saturday 17/Apr/2021.
HIKE 15 - Coimbra to Sernadelo, 25km.
Coimbra.
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| Coimbra, Santa Cruz monastery. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monastery_of_Santa_Cruz_(Coimbra) |
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| Coimbra, residences. |
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| Coimbra, São Tiago church. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Igreja_de_Santiago_(Coimbra) |
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| Coimbra, São Tiago church. |
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| Coimbra, Torre de Almedina. |
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| Coimbra, famous for its troubadour style Fado music. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fado |
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| Coimbra, Old Cathedral. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Cathedral_of_Coimbra |
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| Coimbra, New Cathedral. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Cathedral_of_Coimbra |
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| Coimbra, freedom of speach, university graffiti. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/University_of_Coimbra |
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| Jardim-da-Manga garden. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jardim_da_Manga |
Back onto the Caminho.
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| Igreja de Santiago (São Tiago), Trouxemil. |
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| Trouxemil, Saint James statue in front of the church. |
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| Trouxemil, Santiago-de-Compostela painting. |
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| Capela de Adões, stands in the middle of the street. |
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| Eucalyptus forest next to Santa Luzia. |
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| Mala. |
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| Approaching Mealhada. |
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| Mealhada, Intermarché supermarkt. |
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| Albergue for tonight. |
Sunday 18/Apr/2021.
HIKE 16 - Sernadelo to Águeda, 23.6km (plus ~1.2km = ~24.8km).
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| Leaving the Albergue. |
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| Entering Aguim. |
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| Cherimoya fruit. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherimoya |
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| Arcos, Anadia, Sachs motorbike factory (closed-down in 1995). |
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| Alféloas. |
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| Avelãs-de-Caminho, with a Surprise waiting for me at the "Camino" bar. |
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| Received by the Major of Avelãs-de-Cominho, with the local "Spumante" wine. |
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| Avelãs-de-Caminho. |
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| São João da Azenha, Quinta da Grimpa winery. |
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| Arcangel Michael. |
Águeda (49k inh.).
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| Entering Águeda. |
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| Águeda, a little bit run-down village. |
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| Águeda, clinic. |
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| Águeda. |
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| Águeda, the Albergue for tonight. |
|---| Albergue de Peregrinos Santo António, Águeda, 30€/r incl breakfast.
HIKE 17 - Águeda to Albergaria-a-Velha, 16.1km.
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| Breakfast at the albergue, despite being the only guest. |
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| Mourisca do Vouga, abandoned "Casas Brasileiras" built by returning emigrants. |
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| Pedaçães, fountain. Still 330km to Santiago-de-Compostela. |
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| Crossing the Rio Marnel river on the medieval Cabeço de Vouga bridge. |
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| Crossing the Rio Vouga river on a long bridge. |
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| Early lunch: vegetable soup, calf ragout, 2x wine, coffee (Casa Leonel, Serém). |
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| ... for just 9.10€. |
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| Eucalyptus forest. |
Albergaria-a-Velha (25k inh.).
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| Albergaria-a-Velha, pilgrim place since the 12th Century. |
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| Albergaria-a-Velha, charming Art-Nouvea houses. |
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| Albergaria-a-Velha, the historical hotel for tonight. |
|---| Estalagem dos Padres, Albergaria-a-Velha, 28€/r without breakfast.
Tuesday 20/Apr/2021.
HIKE 18 - Albergaria-a-Velha to São-João-da-Madeira (29km, +593m, -487m, medium, 7-8h).
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| Albergaria-a-Velha, Queen D. Teresa statue. She ordered in 1117 the first albergue. |
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| Heavy rain. |
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| Very muddy. |
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| Pilgrim bar closed... |
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| Still 300km to Santiago-de-Compostela. |
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| Although still the only one... |
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| Along the railway tracks. |
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| Pinheiro-da-Bemposta, a nice lawyer's house. |
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| Funny name of the street. |
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| Pinheiro-da-Bemposta, Cruzeiro do Calvário. |
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| Meeting the very first pilgrims, walking from Porto to Fatima. |
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| Macinhata-da-Seixa, Senhor da Ponte. |
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| Macinhata-da-Seixa, Senhor da Ponte (chapel on the bridge). |
Oliveira-de-Azeméis (67k inh.)
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| Oliveira-de-Azeméis. |
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| Oliveira-de-Azeméis, Municipal offices. |
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| Oliveira-de-Azeméis, excellent lunch restaurant ("Olival Restaurante"). |
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| Oliveira-de-Azeméis, Saint Michael's church. |
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| A "Hórreo" (typical NW Iberian granery). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hórreo |
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| São-João-da-Madeira. |
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| São-João-da-Madeira, view from the hotel room. |
|---| Hotel A.S. São João da Madeira, São-João-da-Madeira, 31€/r incl. breakfast.
Wednesday 21/Apr/2021.
HIKE 19 - São-João-da-Madeira to Grijó, 18.8km.
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| Next to an ugly industrial area, leaving a more authentic São-João-da-Madeira. |
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| Arrifana. Inside this church, 71 civilians were massacred by the Napoleonic troops. |
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| Ancient Roman road. |
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| Talking, pilgrim-business-oriented shrine, with São Tiago joined by Santa Rita. |
Grijó (11k inh.).
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| Grijó, Capela de Santa Rita (protector of the desperate causes, apparently a popular Saint here). |
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| Grijó, Monastery of Såo Salvador (unfortunately closed). |
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| Grijó, "Cozido à Portugueso" dish (Taberna Santo Antonio). |
---- Uber ride from Grijó to the nearest Metro station (the segment from Grijó to Porto was made in January 2024).
Thursday 22/Apr/2021.
Temporary end of the pilgrimage.
Porto (261k inh.).
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| Igreja dos Clérigos (I thought this was the Cathedral). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clérigos_Church |
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| On the way to the Cathedral. |
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| Near the Cathedral, starting point of the pilgrimage ways. |
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| The "Pelourinho" (pillory), in front of the Cathedral. |
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| The Cathedral Square. |
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| Wooden São Tiago statue. |
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| Luxury sacristy, a huge contrast with the São Tiago statue. |
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| São Miguel (Saint Michael), patron of the Cathedral. |
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| View from the clock tower. |
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| View on the Rio Douro. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Douro |
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| Cais dos Guindais. |
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| Ponte Dom Luís I bridge. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dom_Luís_I_Bridge |
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| Ponte Dom Luís I. |
|---| Hotel Girasol, Porto, 36€ without breakfast.
Friday 23/Apr/2021.
Return home journey
---- Ryanair Flight FR6532 from Porto (OPO) to Marseille (MRS), 18:40-21:40, 2h, 74€ incl checked baggage.
|---| Home.
