SAINT OLAV PILGRIMAGE (Norway) - 2nd section.
The Gudbrandsdalen path.
09/Jul/2021 to 30/Jul/2021.
09/Jul/2021 to 30/Jul/2021.
The path stretches from Oslo to Trondheim, 643km of well-marked trail in a stunning and varied countryside.
[https://pilegrimsleden.no/en/map/gudbrandsdalsleden]
Pilgrim Road from Hamar (Oslo) to Trondheim :
EARLIER (Section 2) 06/Jul/2015 to 13/Jul/2015 - 8 hiking days CLICK HERE
– Hamar to Ringsaker
– Ringsaker to Brøttum
– Brøttum to Lillehammer
– Lillehammer to Skaden Gard
– Skaden Gard to Glomstad
– Glomstad to Ringebu
– Ringebu to Harpefoss
– Harpefoss to Kvam
NOW (Section 3) 11/Jul/2021 to 27/Jul/2021 - 17 hiking days, about 300km :
– Kvam to Otta
– Otta to Nord Sel
– Nord Sel to Dovre
– Dovre to Fokstugu
– Fokstugu to Hjerkinn
– Hjerkinn to Kongsvold
– Kongsvold to Ryphusan
– Rypshusan to Smegarden
– Smegarden to Oppdal
– Oppdal to Rennebu
– Rennebu to Meslo
– Meslo to Segard Hoel
– Segard Hoel to Sans Bergmannskroa
– Sans Bergmannskroa to Gumdal
– Gumdal to Skaun
– Skaun to Sundet
– Sundet to Trondheim
LATER (Section 1) 14/Aug/2024 to 17/Aug/2024 - 4 hiking days CLICK HERE
– Oslo to Aaraas Farm.
– Aaraas Farm to Arteid Gard.
– Arteid Gard to Innomhaug.
– Innomhaug to Dal.
Friday 09/Jul/2021.
Home to Oslo journey.
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| Checking-in at Marseille airport, painfully leaving Patricia. |
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| Landed at Oslo airport. |
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| Hula-hoop bedroom for tonight. |
---- Air France flight AF7669 from Marseille (MRS) to Paris (CDG), 11:25-12:55, 1h30.
---- Transit at Paris Charles-de-Gaulle airport, 1h30.
---- Air France flight AF1774 from Paris (CDG) to Oslo Gardermoen (OSL), 14:10-16:25, 2h15, 1h delay.
---- Transit at Paris Charles-de-Gaulle airport, 1h30.
---- Air France flight AF1774 from Paris (CDG) to Oslo Gardermoen (OSL), 14:10-16:25, 2h15, 1h delay.
258€ for all four flights (i.e. including the return flights).
---- Taxi ride from the airport to the hotel, 8 minutes, 349NOK.
|---| Quality Airport Hotel Gardermoen, Jessheim, 599NOK (~59€) incl breakfast.
Saturday 10/Jul/2021.
Oslo to Kvam journey.
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| Taking the train to Lillehammer. |
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| Taking the bus towards Kvam. |
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| Dropped at 1.5km from Kvam. |
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| Local "Kiwi" supermarkt. |
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| The expensive motel for tonight. |
---- Shuttle bus from the hotel to the airport train station, free (quarantaine bus).
---- Train R10 from Oslo Gardermoen Airport to Lillehammer Stasjon, 10:59-12:39, 1h40, 169NOK.
---- Train R10 from Oslo Gardermoen Airport to Lillehammer Stasjon, 10:59-12:39, 1h40, 169NOK.
---- Bus VY146 from Lillehammer Skysstasjon to Kvam E6, 13:20-14:43, 1h23, 159NOK.
---- Rainy hike from Kvam E6 bus stop to the motel, 1.6km, 0h20.
|---| Vertshuset Sinclair Motel, Kvam, 990NOK (~96€) without breakfast.
Sunday 11/Jul/2021.
Kvam to Otta hike.
Leg 9 - 24km.
Kvam to Otta hike.
Leg 9 - 24km.
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| Weather forecast for the next days. |
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| Still raining when leaving the motel. Soon later a beautiful day starts. |
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| Back to the pilgrimage trail, suddenly quitted 6 years ago. CLICK HERE to consult the 2015 post |
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| Trail info about a temporary detour. |
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| Still 297km (and more) to go. |
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| Truck cemetery. |
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| A farm. |
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| A slippery almost-accident bridge. |
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| A pilgrim stop. |
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| Staheim cross. |
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| Meeting with two anxious sheep (today, no humans met along the trail). |
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| Otta, Prillarguri statue. In 1612 she distracted Scottish mercenaries, thus defeated by the peasant army. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prillar-Guri |
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| Luxury-and-expensive hotel for tonight. |
|---| Thon Hotel Otta, Otta, 1084NOK (~105€), incl breakfast.
Monday 12/Jul/2021.
Otta to Nord-Sel hike.
Leg 10 - 13km.
Otta to Nord-Sel hike.
Leg 10 - 13km.
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| Leaving the hotel. |
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| Another Prillarguri reference. |
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| While yesterday hilly and quite forest paths, today totally flat on asphalt and with traffic. |
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| Ulafossen waterfall. |
(short movie)
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| Sel, church. |
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| From Sel onwards, still 284 km to go ??? (not coherent with other signposts). |
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| Jørundgard, reconstructed stave church. |
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| Jørundgard, the mosquito-rich pilgrim lodging. |
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| Bed for tonight, much too short (~170cm). |
|---| Jørundgard Medieval Center, Sel, dormitory and kitchen, 300NOK.
Tuesday 13/Jul/2021.
Nord-Sel to Dovre hike.
Leg 11 - 31km.
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| Still 270km to Trondheim. |
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| Kristin Lavransdatter monument (from Sigrid Undset's novels). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kristin_Lavransdatter |
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| Beautiful waterfall. |
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| Beautiful forest. |
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| A nice coffee stop, after having hiked for 2h. |
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| A farmer explains with a lot of drawings and details (in norvegian) a shortcut. |
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| River crossing near Vollheim Camping, another welcome coffee stop. |
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| "Happiness Only Real When Shared" (last phrase of Christopher McCandless). |
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| Farm. |
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| Farm. |
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| Dovre, church and graveyard. |
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| Still 250km from Dovre to Trondheim. |
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| Dovre Coop supermarket... shopping place the next six days supplies. |
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| Also the place for an alcohol-free brew (real beer is much too expensive here). |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Toftemo Turiststasjon Hotel, Dovre, 890NOK (~87€) incl breakfast.
Wednesday 14/Jul/2021.
Dovre to Fokstugu hike.
Leg 12 - 18km.
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| Trespassing this meadow as a shortcut resulted in a chat and coffee with the farmer. |
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| The pilgrim trail follows the historical King's Road over the high plateau. |
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| The barren high plateau is reached after an intense climb from the valley. |
Dovrefjell high plateau.
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| Pilgrim register. |
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| Peatland. |
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| Picnic spot. |
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| Dreamspot. |
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| Fokstugu Fjellstue. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Fokstugu Fjellstue, religious retreat, 750NOK (~73€), self catering.
Thursday 15/Jul/2021.
Fokstugu to Hageseter hike.
Leg 13 - 19km.
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| Boardwalk. |
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| Avsjøen lake. |
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| Hageseter Touristhytte. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hageseter Turisthytte, private room, 650NOK (~63€).
Friday 16/Jul/2021.
Hageseter to Kongsvold hike.
Leg 14 - 17km.
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| 208 km... |
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| Kongsvold Fjeldstue, today's destination. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Frich's Kongsvold Fjeldstue, Mountain Lodge, 1245NOK incl breakfast.
Saturday 17/Jul/2021.
Kongsvold to Ryphusan hike.
Leg 15 - 22km.
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| The "Vårstigen" path starts from a parking along the E6. |
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| Vårstigen. |
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| Vårstigen. |
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| Vårstigen, Tingsvaet lookout. |
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| Trail-angel tools. |
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| Musk ox warning |
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| Here, the pilgrim trail leaves Vårstigen, to climb even higher, towards the plateau. |
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| Picnic, well protected from the blizzard. |
On the plateau. Very windy !
(short movie)
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| Ryphusan Refugium, an old cow shed sleeping up to ten people (five this night). |
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| First arrived... best bed (the one near the gas stove). |
|---| /090/ Ryphusan Refugium, unmanned pilgrim shelter, 250NOK/bed.
Sunday 18/Jul/2021.
Ryphusan to Smegarden hike.
Leg 16 - 14km.
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| Leaving the Ryphusan hamlet. |
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| Cold and humid weather. |
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| Stenbua, an old shepherd cottage, that can be used as a pilgrim shelter. |
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| St. Mikaels kapell. |
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| View from the Saint Michael's chapel, through a big window facing Oppdal. |
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| Tiny cabin for tonight. |
Monday 19/Jul/2021.
Smegarden to Oppdal hike.
Leg 17 - 11km.
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| Leaving the cabin at Smegarden. |
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| "Vang gravfelt", a viking burial site. |
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| "Vang gravfelt". |
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| "Oppdal kirke". |
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| "Oppdal kirke". |
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| Still 153km to reach Trondheim. |
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| Oppdal. |
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| Awaiting Patricia at "Oppdal Stasjon". |
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| Bedroom with kitchen for tonight. |
Tuesday 20/Jul/2021.
Oppdal to Rennebu hike.
Leg 18 - 26km 6h30.
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| Pilgrim shelter. |
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| Hæverstølen. |
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| Little survival store. |
|---| Hæverstølen, Rennebu, 700NOK/2p.
Wednesday 21/Jul/2021.
Rennebu to Meslo Gard hike.
Leg 19 - 20km 5h15.
Wednesday 21/Jul/2021.
Rennebu to Meslo Gard hike.
Leg 19 - 20km 5h15.
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| Leaving Hæverstølen. |
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| Little hut for tonight. |
Thursday 22/Jul/2021.
Meslo Gard to Segard Hoel hike.
Leg 20 - 23km 6h15.
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| Leaving Meslo Gard. |
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| Rennebu. |
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| Rennebu. |
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| Rennebu. |
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| Rennebu. |
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| Rennebu. |
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| A (covid-closed) pilgrim cafeteria. |
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| A shelter selling some pilgrim goodies. |
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| Little house for tonight. |
|---| Segard Hoel, Jerpstad, 700NOK/2p.
Friday 23/Jul/2021.
Segard Hoel to Skogheim hike.
Leg 21 - 17km.
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| Leaving the lovely tiny cottage at Segard Hoel. |
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| Still 90 km to go. |
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| Open air museum. |
|---| Skogheim Herberge, Løkken Verk, 700NOK/2p.
Saturday 24/Jul/2021.
Skogheim to Gumdal hike.
Leg 22 - 12km.
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| Leaving Skogheim Herberge. |
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| Passing through Lokken Verk, ancient mining town 1652-1987. |
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| 61km left to Trondheim ??? (seems very optimistic). |
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| Gumdal Herberge, pilgrims stay in the red-painted cabin. |
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| Pilgrims house (musician Pål Moddi sitting in front). |
Sunday 25/Jul/2021.
Gumdal to Skaun hike.
Leg 23 - 21km.
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| Solsjøen lake. |
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| Interesting window discussion with a german-speaking local. |
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| Cloudberries. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubus_chamaemorus |
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| "Meskogsvatnet", a table and a little lake, just 200m apart from the trail. |
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| "Hvilstein", a mussel-shaped resting stone with ancient inscriptions. |
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| "Mormonhølen", a mormon baptism site used until 1953. (also a refreshing natural swimming pool). |
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| Skaun kirke (church), built 1183. |
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| 13th Century antemensale. Funny to observe Saint Josef's attitude in the two drawings at the right hand side. |
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| Skauan farm. |
Monday 26/Jul/2021.
Skaun to Strandheimen hike.
Leg 24 - 16km.
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| Leaving the farm. |
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| Sawmill. |
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| Ocean view ! |
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| Arrival at Strandheimen. |
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| Once more a beautiful cabin tonight. |
|---| Strandheimen, Melhus, 740NOK/2p.
Tuesday 27/Jul/2021.
Strandheimen to Trondheim hike.
Leg 25 - 27km.
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| Once more an optimistic mile stone (next waymarking shows 14.7km). |
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| Celebrating the pilgrimage end. |
|---| Thon Hotel Nidaros, Trondheim, 1158NOK/n (~114€) incl breakfast.
Wednesday 28/Jul/2021.
Trondheim.
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| Trondheim Town Square, Torvet (now taken by temporary food stalls). |
Nidaros cathedral (Saint Olav).
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| Nidaros cathedral. |
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| Nidaros cathedral. |
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| Nidaros cathedral. |
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| Nidaros cathedral, Sámi People altar (northern Norway indigenous people). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sámi_people |
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| The old town bridge, locally known as "The portal of Joy". |
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| A beautiful sewer grate. |
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| The wharves, lined-up storehouses built in the 1700s. |
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| Coastal ferry. |
|---| Thon Hotel Nidaros, Trondheim, 1158NOK/n (~114€) incl breakfast.
Thursday 29/Jul/2021.
Trondheim.
Svartlamon.
Said to be Trondheim's "alternative" part of town.
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| Svartlamon. |
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| Back to Trondheim's Town Square. |
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| Back to the Nidaros cathedral, with a decorated Saint-James statue. |
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| Museum of contemporary art. |
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| Jummy fish burgers at "Mesob" restaurant. |
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| Nice lime breezer and Pilegrim beer break in the hotel room. |
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| Nidaros cathedral, Vespers time (an incense-rich experience). |
|---| Thon Hotel Nidaros, Trondheim, 1158NOK/n (~114€) incl breakfast.
Friday 30/Jul/2021.
Trondheim to Home journey.
---- KLM flight KL1172 from Trondheim (TRD) to Amsterdam (AMS), 06:00-08:15, 2h15.
---- Transit at Amsterdam Schiphol airport 1h35.
---- Air France flight AF1807 from Amsterdam (AMS) to Marseille (MRS), 09:50-11:40, 1h50.
|---| Home.
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| Credential. |
